Centella Asiatica Extract (INCI: CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, CAS 84696-21-9), commonly known as CICA, is a plant-derived ingredient extracted from the whole Centella asiatica L. plant (Apiaceae family), native to tropical and subtropical regions of Asia. It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine for wound healing and skin repair, and has become one of the most sought-after botanical ingredients in modern skincare — particularly in Korean beauty (K-beauty), where CICA products have achieved widespread popularity. Its key active compounds — madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid — work synergistically to soothe inflammation, stimulate collagen synthesis, and strengthen the skin barrier. The CIR Expert Panel concluded it is Safe with Qualifications. No EU regulatory restrictions. No allergen flags, no GHS hazard codes. SkinSenseDiary safety rating: 1/10 (low risk). Found in 5,391 products.
Centella Asiatica Extract (INCI: CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACT, CAS 84696-21-9, EC 283-640-5) is a botanical extract derived from the whole plant of Centella asiatica L. (syn. Hydrocotyle asiatica), a small herbaceous perennial in the Apiaceae (Umbelliferae) family. Native to the wetlands of South and Southeast Asia, Centella asiatica — commonly known as CICA, Gotu Kola, Tiger Grass, or Pegaga — has been used for centuries in Ayurvedic, traditional Chinese, and Southeast Asian medicine as a wound-healing and skin-repair agent. It is registered in EU CosIng (ref #75075) with approved functions including skin conditioning, soothing, surfactant, and antioxidant. Found in 5,391 products in our database, it is one of the most widely used botanical ingredients in the skincare industry.
The pharmacological activity of Centella Asiatica Extract is attributed primarily to four pentacyclic triterpenoid compounds: madecassoside, asiaticoside (and their respective aglycones madecassic acid and asiatic acid). These compounds have been extensively studied for their ability to stimulate collagen type I and III synthesis, promote fibroblast proliferation, inhibit inflammatory mediators (including NF-kB and TNF-alpha pathways), and accelerate wound closure. The ratio and concentration of these triterpenoids varies depending on the extraction method, plant part used, and growing conditions — which is why different "Centella" products can have very different efficacy profiles despite sharing the same plant origin.
The modern "CICA boom" in skincare — driven largely by Korean beauty brands — has made Centella Asiatica one of the most recognisable botanical ingredients globally. The term "CICA" is derived from the French "cicatrisante" (meaning healing/scarring) and is used as a marketing umbrella encompassing Centella Asiatica Extract, isolated triterpenoid compounds, and proprietary blends. The CIR Expert Panel reviewed Centella Asiatica-derived ingredients and concluded they are Safe with Qualifications — the qualifications relate to formulation and concentration considerations rather than inherent safety concerns. There are no EU regulatory restrictions on Centella Asiatica Extract, no harmonised GHS hazard classifications, and no allergen flags in our database. No dedicated SCCS opinion exists for this ingredient.
Centella Asiatica Extract is one of the most well-studied natural anti-inflammatory ingredients in cosmetics. Madecassoside and asiaticoside have been shown to inhibit pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-alpha, IL-1beta, IL-6) and suppress NF-kB signalling pathways. This makes Centella particularly effective for calming redness, irritation, post-procedure sensitivity, and inflammatory skin conditions. It is a go-to ingredient for those recovering from chemical peels, laser treatments, or experiencing reactive skin episodes.
Asiatic acid and madecassic acid stimulate the synthesis of collagen types I and III, while also promoting the production of hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans in the extracellular matrix. This combination helps reinforce the skin's structural integrity and barrier function, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving the skin's ability to retain moisture. Compromised barriers — common in eczema, rosacea-prone, or over-exfoliated skin — benefit significantly from consistent Centella use.
Centella Asiatica's wound-healing properties are its most well-documented traditional and clinical benefit. Asiaticoside stimulates fibroblast proliferation and accelerates epithelial cell migration, while madecassoside provides anti-inflammatory support during the healing process. Clinical studies have demonstrated Centella's efficacy in improving scar appearance, accelerating post-surgical healing, and supporting the repair of microtrauma from environmental stressors and UV damage.
Centella Asiatica Extract exhibits antioxidant activity through multiple mechanisms, including free radical scavenging and enhancement of endogenous antioxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase). This helps protect skin cells from oxidative stress caused by UV radiation, pollution, and environmental aggressors. While not a replacement for sunscreen, the antioxidant activity of Centella provides a complementary layer of environmental defence in daily skincare routines.
Suitable for: All skin types, including sensitive, reactive, compromised, eczema-prone, rosacea-prone, and post-procedure skin. Centella Asiatica Extract is particularly valued by those with easily irritated or barrier-damaged skin. It is also suitable for normal, oily, and combination skin types as a general soothing and anti-aging ingredient. No known photosensitivity concerns — safe for daytime use without additional UV precautions beyond normal sunscreen use.
Centella Asiatica Extract carries a SkinSenseDiary safety rating of 1/10 — low risk, one of the safest ingredients in our database. The CIR Expert Panel concluded it is Safe with Qualifications. No EU regulatory restrictions (CosIng #75075). No allergen flags. No harmonised GHS hazard classifications. No known endocrine activity. No SCCS safety concerns. Found in 5,391 products.
CIR "Safe with Qualifications" — what does this mean? The CIR qualification for botanical extracts is standard and relates to formulation quality control: ensuring the extract is adequately preserved to prevent microbial contamination, that heavy metal levels are within acceptable limits, and that the extraction process does not introduce harmful contaminants. It is not a warning about the ingredient's inherent safety. Many well-regarded, widely used botanical ingredients carry this same CIR qualification.
Variability between products: Not all "CICA" products are created equal. The efficacy of Centella Asiatica Extract depends on the concentration and ratio of active triterpenoids (madecassoside, asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassic acid), the extraction method, and the plant part used. Products using "Centella Asiatica water" as a base ingredient contain primarily water with trace actives, while concentrated extracts standardised to a specific triterpenoid content deliver more targeted benefits. Check whether the product lists the extract early or late in the INCI list.
Extremely rare allergic reactions: While Centella Asiatica Extract is one of the best-tolerated botanical ingredients, isolated cases of allergic contact dermatitis have been reported in the dermatological literature. These are exceptionally uncommon and typically associated with sensitivity to the triterpenoid compounds (particularly asiaticoside). If you experience unexpected irritation from a CICA product, consider patch testing and consult a dermatologist.
Centella Asiatica Extract is generally considered safe for topical use during pregnancy and nursing. It has no GHS reproductive or developmental toxicity codes (no H361d, no H362), no EU restrictions, and no known endocrine activity. The CIR Expert Panel rated it Safe with Qualifications (relating to formulation quality, not inherent safety). Centella has a long history of traditional use, including for pregnancy-related skin concerns such as stretch marks — in fact, several clinical studies have investigated Centella-based creams specifically for stretch mark prevention during pregnancy. Unlike chemical UV filters or retinoids, Centella Asiatica Extract is a plant-derived soothing ingredient with minimal systemic absorption that does not raise systemic safety concerns. As with any skincare ingredient, consult your healthcare provider if you have specific concerns.
In a typical skincare routine, apply your Centella (CICA) product after cleansing and toning, but before heavier creams and oils. For serums and essences, apply to slightly damp skin to enhance absorption. If using a CICA toner, it goes immediately after cleansing. CICA creams and moisturisers go as the last step before sunscreen (AM) or as the final step (PM).
Centella Asiatica Extract is gentle enough for twice-daily use. Unlike active ingredients that require tolerance-building (retinol, AHAs), Centella does not cause photosensitivity, purging, or irritation. Consistent daily use allows the skin to benefit from cumulative soothing, barrier-strengthening, and reparative effects. There is no need for "rest days" or cycling.
Centella pairs exceptionally well with other skincare actives. Use it alongside niacinamide for barrier repair + brightening, with hyaluronic acid for soothing + hydration, or as a calming complement to stronger actives like retinol or AHAs (apply Centella after the active to help reduce irritation). CICA products are particularly valuable in post-procedure recovery routines.
Not all CICA products deliver the same level of active compounds. For maximum benefit, look for products that list Centella Asiatica Extract (not just Centella Asiatica water) in the upper third of the INCI list, or that specify the triterpenoid content (e.g., "standardised to 80% madecassoside"). Products using isolated madecassoside or asiaticoside at the end of the INCI list are delivering trace amounts — still beneficial but less potent.
Concentrated delivery of Centella triterpenoids. Best for targeted soothing, post-procedure recovery, and layering with other actives. Typically 0.5–5% extract concentration.
Emollient-rich format combining Centella with occlusive ingredients for barrier repair. Ideal for dry, compromised, or eczema-prone skin. Can be used as a night treatment or spot treatment on irritated areas.
Lightweight, watery format for hydrating and soothing prep. Often uses Centella Asiatica water or dilute extract. Good for layering in multi-step routines, especially in hot or humid climates.
Complementary mechanisms: Niacinamide strengthens the barrier via ceramide synthesis while Centella provides anti-inflammatory and wound-healing support. Together they address redness, sensitivity, and barrier damage from multiple angles. A very popular combination in K-beauty.
Hyaluronic acid provides intensive hydration while Centella soothes and repairs. This pairing is particularly effective for dehydrated, sensitive skin — the humectant draws moisture in while the Centella calms inflammation and supports barrier recovery.
Both are gentle, well-tolerated soothing ingredients. Panthenol enhances skin hydration and softness while Centella provides deeper structural repair and anti-inflammatory benefits. Combined, they create a powerful calming and recovery duo.
No chemical incompatibility, but retinoids can cause irritation, dryness, and peeling. Apply Centella after retinol (or in the morning when retinol is used at night) to help soothe retinoid-induced irritation and support barrier recovery. CICA products are commonly used as "buffer" products in retinol routines.
Chemical exfoliants (glycolic acid, salicylic acid) can temporarily disrupt the skin barrier. Centella is an excellent follow-up ingredient to calm post-exfoliation sensitivity. Apply your exfoliant first, wait for it to absorb, then apply your CICA product. Avoid mixing in the same formulation step.
L-Ascorbic Acid at high concentrations (15–20%) can be irritating and operates best at low pH (2.5–3.5). Centella products are typically near-neutral pH. For best results, apply Vitamin C serum first, allow full absorption, then follow with CICA products as a calming layer. Not a chemical conflict — a pH and irritation management strategy.
Showing 6 of 5,391 products containing Centella Asiatica Extract. Product inclusion does not imply endorsement.
Scan barcodes, analyse full ingredient lists, and get personalised safety ratings with SkinSenseDiary.
Join the Waitlist