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Urea — NMF Component, Humectant & Keratolytic Agent

A key component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that supports stratum corneum hydration and, at higher concentrations, provides keratolytic action. Found in 1,339 products in our database, Urea is widely used for dry, rough, and keratinized skin.

Data sources: EU CosIng (#38838), CIR Safety Assessment of Urea (2005), and SkinSenseDiary internal evaluation. Last updated: April 2026.

At a Glance

Also Known As
Ureum, Carbamide, 尿素
CAS Number
57-13-6
CosIng Functions
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Buffering
Source
Synthetic (identical to natural compound in skin)
Korean Name
우레아
Regulation
No restrictions

What Is Urea?

This humectant and skin-conditioning agent helps improve stratum corneum hydration, while at higher concentrations it provides keratolytic action by promoting desquamation. It's commonly used in moisturizers and treatments for dry, rough skin. The ingredient has a favorable safety profile and is generally well-tolerated, though burning or stinging can occur — particularly on compromised or broken skin, and irritation potential varies with concentration and vehicle.


Urea (INCI: Urea, CAS 57-13-6) is a naturally occurring compound that is a key component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) — the complex mixture of substances that keeps the stratum corneum hydrated. In healthy skin, Urea makes up approximately 7% of the NMF. It is a small, water-soluble molecule (molecular weight 60 Da) that penetrates the stratum corneum readily, which is why it is so effective at improving hydration from within. Cosmetic Urea is produced synthetically from ammonia and carbon dioxide, yielding a compound identical to the Urea naturally present in the body.


The CIR Expert Panel assessed Urea and concluded it is safe as used in cosmetics. The assessment found Urea is not genotoxic in standard bacterial and mammalian assays, and not carcinogenic in animal studies. At cosmetic concentrations (typically 2–10%), Urea functions primarily as a humectant and skin conditioner. At higher concentrations (10–40%), it exhibits keratolytic properties — gently dissolving the intercellular cement that holds dead skin cells together, promoting desquamation and smoother skin texture. This dual action makes Urea uniquely versatile among moisturizing ingredients.

Benefits — 4 Key Roles

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Hydration (NMF Component)

As a natural part of the skin's own NMF (~7% of NMF content), Urea helps improve stratum corneum hydration. Its hygroscopic properties support moisture retention, which may improve skin elasticity and reduce tightness and flaking.

Gentle Exfoliation (Keratolytic)

At concentrations above 10%, Urea breaks down the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting their natural shedding. This smooths rough texture and reduces flakiness. Note: CIR states Urea can increase percutaneous absorption of other chemicals — this is a formulation consideration, not a primary skincare benefit.

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Barrier Support

By restoring NMF levels in the stratum corneum, Urea strengthens the skin's moisture barrier. This reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and helps protect against environmental irritants, making skin more resilient over time.

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Formulation Consideration: Penetration

The CIR notes that Urea can increase percutaneous absorption of other chemicals. Formulators should consider this when combining Urea with other actives. This is a formulation-level consideration rather than a primary consumer benefit.

Commonly used for: Dry, very dry, rough, and keratinized skin. Also widely used in foot care and body care. Sensitive or broken skin should start with low concentrations; burning/stinging may occur, especially at higher concentrations or on compromised skin.

Safety Rating: 1/10 (Low Hazard)

1
/ 10

Safe as Used

The CIR Expert Panel concluded that Urea is safe as used in cosmetics. It is a natural component of the skin's NMF and generally well-tolerated at cosmetic concentrations. However, irritation potential varies with concentration, vehicle, and skin condition — burning/stinging is the most commonly reported adverse sensation.

Evidence
CIR Assessment
Safe as Used
CIR assessed Urea and found it non-genotoxic, non-carcinogenic, with few reports of sensitization. Used as a humectant, buffering agent, and skin-conditioning agent in cosmetics at concentrations typically up to 10%.
EU Regulation
No Restrictions
Not listed in Annex II (prohibited), III (restricted), or IV. Registered in CosIng as #38838. EU-wide unrestricted use in cosmetics.
Allergen & Sensitivity
Generally Well-Tolerated
No allergen tags in our database. No GHS hazard codes. Low sensitization risk, though burning/stinging is the most common adverse sensation, particularly on damaged or compromised skin. Commonly found in products for dry and keratinized skin; sensitive or broken skin should start with low concentrations.
CosIng
Approved Functions
Humectant · Skin Conditioning · Buffering. EU CosIng approved functions. Urea supports stratum corneum hydration, improves skin texture, and also serves as a buffering agent to stabilize product pH.

Things to Know

At low concentrations (2–10%), Urea is a gentle humectant suitable for daily use on the face and body. At higher concentrations (10–20%), it becomes keratolytic and may cause mild tingling on sensitive or broken skin. Concentrations above 20% are generally intended for targeted treatment of very dry, callused, or keratinized areas.

Urea can sting when applied to cracked or open skin. If you experience discomfort, allow wounds to heal first or choose a lower concentration. This is a temporary sensation, not an allergic reaction.

In the CIR assessment, 5% Urea was noted as slightly irritating and 20% as irritating in some reports, while 60% produced no significant irritation in another study — illustrating that individual tolerance varies and concentration matters.

Pregnancy & Nursing

Urea is a naturally occurring compound produced by the human body during protein metabolism. It is a normal component of the skin's NMF and is present in blood, urine, and sweat. The CIR assessment found it non-genotoxic and non-carcinogenic. Topical urea at cosmetic concentrations is generally considered low-risk during pregnancy based on its endogenous nature and limited systemic absorption from topical application — though this is not based on dedicated pregnancy clinical trials. Always consult your healthcare provider for personal advice.

Sources & References
Look up this ingredient on each authoritative source:
🔗 EWG Skin Deep🔗 PubMed🔗 EU CosIng🔗 ECHA🔗 FDA🔗 AAD🔗 CIR
Safety data compiled from CIR Safety Assessment of Urea (2005), EU CosIng Database, and SkinSenseDiary internal analysis. This is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Last updated: April 2026.

Pairing Guide

Great Pairings

Ceramides

Urea hydrates from within the stratum corneum while ceramides rebuild the lipid barrier from above. Together they provide comprehensive dry-skin repair — moisture retention plus barrier reinforcement.

Hyaluronic Acid

Two humectants that both support skin hydration. HA is a large polymer; Urea is a small molecule (60 Da) that readily penetrates the stratum corneum. Their relative performance depends on formulation and product design rather than a simple surface/deep distinction. A commonly used combination for dehydrated skin.

Squalane

Squalane is an excellent emollient to seal in the hydration that Urea provides. This pairing is especially effective for body care — Urea moisturizes and softens, squalane locks it all in.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and reduces inflammation while Urea provides deep hydration. Together they address both barrier weakness and moisture deficiency — common in dry, sensitive skin.

Use with Care

AHA/BHA Exfoliants

High-concentration Urea (10%+) already has keratolytic action. Adding AHA (glycolic, lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) on top may over-exfoliate, leading to irritation. If using both, alternate days or use on different body areas.

Retinol (with high-% Urea)

Low-concentration Urea (2–5%) pairs well with retinol. But high-concentration Urea (10%+) combined with retinol may cause excessive dryness and irritation — the exfoliating actions can compound.

Popular Products

Featured products containing Urea. Found in 1,339 product variants in our database. Formulations may change between product versions; verify current INCI lists.

Eucerin
UreaRepair Plus 5% Urea Body Lotion
Body Lotion
CeraVe
SA Smoothing Cream
Body Cream
La Roche-Posay
Iso-Urea MD Baume Psoriasis
Treatment Balm
Sebamed
Extreme Dry Skin Relief Lotion 10% Urea
Body Lotion
Hada Labo
Gokujyun Premium Lotion
Toner / Lotion
Bioderma
Atoderm Intensive Baume
Intensive Balm

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Urea safe for sensitive skin?
Urea has a SkinSenseDiary safety rating of 1/10 (Low Hazard). The CIR Expert Panel concluded Urea is safe as used in cosmetics. Urea is a natural component of the skin's NMF. At low concentrations (2–10%), it is generally well-tolerated. However, the CIR notes burning/stinging can occur, particularly on damaged or compromised skin, and irritation potential varies with concentration and vehicle. No GHS hazard codes. Commonly found in products for dry and sensitive skin; sensitive or broken skin should start with low concentrations.
Can I use Urea every day?
Yes. At concentrations of 2–10%, Urea is generally considered safe for daily use. It acts as a humectant, helping to improve stratum corneum hydration over time. Higher concentrations (20–40%) are typically used as targeted treatments and may not be suitable for everyday facial application. Some individuals may experience transient stinging, particularly on compromised skin.
Can I use Urea with Retinol?
Yes, and it can be a helpful pairing. Urea's humectant and barrier-supporting properties help offset the dryness and irritation retinol can cause. However, at higher concentrations (>10%), Urea has mild keratolytic (exfoliating) action, which combined with retinol may be too much for some skin types. Start with a low-concentration Urea moisturizer (5–10%) alongside retinol.
Is Urea safe during pregnancy?
Urea is a naturally occurring compound produced by the body during protein metabolism and is a normal component of the skin's NMF. The CIR assessment found it non-genotoxic and non-carcinogenic. Topical urea at cosmetic concentrations is generally considered low-risk during pregnancy based on its endogenous nature and limited systemic absorption — though this is not based on dedicated pregnancy clinical trials. Always consult your healthcare provider for personal advice.
What is the difference between Urea and Hyaluronic Acid?
Both are humectants that support skin hydration, but they differ in molecular size and additional properties. HA is a large polymer; Urea is a small molecule (60 Da) that readily penetrates the stratum corneum. Their relative hydration performance depends on concentration, formulation, and product design — not simply a deep/surface distinction. Additionally, Urea at higher concentrations (10%+) has keratolytic properties, promoting desquamation — something HA does not do.
What concentration of Urea should I use?
It depends on your concern. 2–5% Urea provides gentle daily moisturizing for the face and body. 5–10% is ideal for moderately dry or rough skin and is commonly found in body lotions. 10–20% is used for very dry, cracked, or callused areas (feet, elbows). 20–40% has strong keratolytic action and is used for conditions like keratosis pilaris, psoriasis, and severe dryness — typically under medical guidance.

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